Light modifications made.

So I told you about changing out the lights under the loft.  I also needed light in the bathroom and in the loft.  Now, no one seemed to have what I was wanting so I had to find something I could modify. LED’s to the rescue.

The box made the claim they were florescent replacments.  48″ long and looking very industrial.  I opened one up there at Home Depot and looked over the parts.

They are very similar to fluorescent assemblies but instead of a ballast and four wires there is a DC power supply and two wires.  The whole rear portion of the unit existed solely for the purpose of mounting and containing the power supply.  In otherwords…not necessary in my situation.  I broke out the rivets holding the power supply in place and threw the back into the pile.

I ran the two DC wires through a small hole drilled in the wall and mounted just the LED strip onto the wall.  The power supply will be (is already hidden in the loft) hidden out of sight where it can be accessed if repairs are needed later.

What I am left with is a 2100 lumen light strip.  That is right at a  inch thick in total.  Almost unbreakable and real clear even light.

There is one centered in the loft under the window a little above what I think will be mattress height.  This one alone lights up the whole house enough to function.

LoftCompleted.

Completed loft with light.

The second one is in the bathroom above the sink and mirror.  Another 2100 lumens this time in a room smaller than many closets.

LightGlow

Bathroom light while on.

So, if I turn on all five lights in the house (and the porch lamps) I will, consume a little over 75 watts per hour. (And need my sunglasses.)  Because all of these are battery powered my one deep cell battery should last 15+ hours continuously.  Unnecessary but doable.

The loft light and porch lamp are wired with Two-Way switches.  So if I climb into bed and realized that the porch light is on its do not have to climb down the ladder to turn it off.  Same with the loft: Why climb back up just to turn off the lights.

I have also marked the switches as to what theyou control.  Because there are five switches all within six feet of one another in the same space it may not be obvious what light each controls.

If you have been following along since the start of this blog you know how long some of the wiring has been in place.  I suggest you take good notes and DO NOT LOSE THEM.  I spent half a Saturday breaking down the loft walls following wires because I lost my notes.  Then discovering everything was fine I had not installed the missing wire yet because there was nothing at the end yet.

 

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Three T’s have arrived.

Those logistical experts at UPS have delivered my last major parts: tank, tank, and toilet.  With these items installed tiny can go dry camping.  (And be titled as a travel trailer.)

T, T, and T

UPS has been here.

Next step is to decide exact tank placements, measure three times and hit the plumbing department for pipe and fittings.

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Changed Mind =

OK so I am not the most ‘stick to it’ person in the world. I have decided a few things done earlier were just not right and needed some change. The ceiling was shoddy and white, the oven was ick, lighting was not bright enough, and the tile on the kitchen wall was not working out. (I just was not feeling it.)

Despite the cries from my checkbook I replaced the ceiling. Instead of the white bead-board that was there I went with pine. The white did not feel correct and because each board was only 32″ in length each little variation in the ceiling showed.

Next, the toaster oven that was mounted on the wall had to go. It has been replaced with a shelf and some lighting.

The under cabinet lights are low voltage (12 VDC) and switched just like you would expect in a home. They were designed and sold as truck-bed lights that plug into the trailer plug.

The little café style lights that were under the loft for the living area were removed. The metal reflectors kept dropping off, the bulbs were too dim (or too big if I used brighter ones) and I did not like the wire showing. I found a 1 x 1 foot flat light at Home Depot for less than $50.

It should be about 600 lumen (40-60 watt equiv.) and is a nice 3000K light that is free from that yellow glow.

Where the wall tiles were (to prevent burning the wall with the stove) I was able to create a nice oven/microwave nook. I Took my handy tape measure to Target and Wal-Mart measuring every microwave and toaster oven on the shelves.

Oven hole

Cabinet space for oven.

This space is large enough to hold the largest I could find. (Oster wins the category with the ability to cook full pizzas. Measuring in at 21.75 x 20 x 13 inches.) There will also be enough space to slide in a sheet pan or two along side. The 110 outlet was hard wired into the inside wall to keep the counter clutter free.

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Two Crazy Weeks…

I have a tub.  It used to be a sheep tank.  Measuring out at 23 by 42 it is quite a bit smaller than my original planned tub.  I sat in it twice at the ranch stare before making the purchase.  I was able to sink it into the floor saving even more space.  Like the kitchen sink I had to cut in my own drain.

A portion of the bathroom cabinet was unneeded so it is now my new sitting bench.  I should be able to soak my toes or read a book.  The extra space will allow me to have a small closet as well. The space under this closet is actually part of the kitchen storage.

image

Closet will go here.

 

The bathroom sink is also installed into the counter, mirror hung, and two of three walls up.

For the walls I went two tone.  Stacked stone on the bottom and Barnwood for the upper. Behind the tub I installed an additional 1/2″ foam insulation.  This also helped align the walls so the surfaces are flush.

image

Wall over foam.

On the outside I now have all siding boards installed.  The last few shingles attached above the bay windows, silicone applied to prevent leaks…

Alright then.  That’s it for now…

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I changed my mind…

Bread-bowl sink is no more.  I have moved on to version II.

I hit the jackpot at my local restaurant supply dealer.  Same idea but this time the sink will be large enough to actually do dishes.

image

This version is countersunk into the cabinet top and can be covered with the cutting board.  The cabinet top is two layers of 3/8 plywood and covered with 1/8 panel.  I will be coating the exposed surfaces (and top) with polyurathane.

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Bread Bowl Sink

After thinking about it a long time and researching every legitimate source I decided to make my own stainless steel sink.

Parts used were one 8 quart bowl from Wal-Mart, self edhesive craft foam, drain assembly and tools.

Watch out for the razor-sharp scraps during this process!

Wear your hearing protection while sawing!

image

Save your hearing.

It took six drill bits before my hole was large enough for a saw blade.  I started with 1/16 inch and increased in size until I reached 3/8.  I then was able to scroll-saw around the drain hole.  Once I was sure the drain parts fit I used a grinding bit in my Dremmell Tool to remove the steel spurs and edges.

image

Drain attached.

I’m note sure if the scrap counter top I have will stay or go, but I went ahead and cut my hole and dropped the sink in to see how I like it.

Here it is:image

Total cost: under $20.

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Ladder is Built

The ladder is now built. I had to use it a few times before I posted my success story…

It will not be in a fixed location due to space limitations. I plan on storing it along the ceiling under the loft.

I used #2 Pine 1×4. (3/4″ x 3 3/4) for the sides and steps. Under each step there is an additional 1 x 2 to provide additional strength. Each screw is 2 5/8″ in length into pre-drilled holes to help prevent splitting boards.

The leg bottoms and steps are at 14 degree angles so climbing up will always have a flat surfaces. Here are closer shots of the unions:

 

 

 

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