I did the physical install of the tail lights a long time ago. The wiring was all routed to a central location so I could tie into the existing trailer lights. But I lost the notes. And the wires have been dangling from the trailer so long the sharpie had faded. Now I have five wires and no idea what they do.
I spent what seemed like hours with my multimeter ensuring I know what wire did what. And…that it did nothing else unexpected. This last but was due to the fact I have an extra wire hanging labeled “Red” that seems to go nowhere and does nothing.
After some research on wiring colors and plug pin-outs I had my diagrams and was ready to splice. But there is not enough slack in any of the factory wires to splice neatly. Then here comes the luck…
Factory provided block.
Near the trailer tongue is a covered box with terminal connectors for each of the six used wires on the 7-pin plug. (It seems reverse was not important enough to wire or provide lights. Considering this was a ‘car’ hauler and the towing vehicle would be visible it makes sense.). Thanks Mirage for keeping things neat and serviceable. I wish other trailers in my life were so organized. (If you are looking, they make quality 10,000# rated trailers right here in Nampa, Idaho USA.)
I measured out four (Brake, running, Drivers Ground, Passenger Ground) lengths of wire and purchased a junction block. this will allow me to avoid wire nuts, tape and loose connections later.
25+ feet of wire x4.
I hope to get the wires connected in the morning while it is still cool. (You know the 60’s.) Today we broke 100 so any time outside needs to be before my work is in the sun.
As a side note: It seems the 500ft spools of wire I purchased were an investment. I have used nearly half of the white and a 1/3rd of the black. I have also used a lot of colored tape to identify wire. Why buy numerous colors when ID’n both ends works.
So here is a shameless plug for the Home Depot store where nearly all of my supplies come from. The customer support I have received in the lumber department in the last two weeks. I would like to think they treat me good because I have purchased too much from them for my project, but I have seen them treat every customer just like they treat me.
My table saw is only about two feet wide and deep. It is a task to get straight cuts when pushing whole sheets of material through. Twice now the guys have cut my material for me exactly as I requested. Not one or two little cuts. Reducing whole sheets of plywood down to strips for me. And then refusing to charge me for the extra cuts. (Clearly posted as $.50 each after the first two.)
The work in the previous post required 48 feet of 5 inch plywood for the horizontals and then 48 feet of 6.5 inch plywood for the vertical boards. They saved me so much time, made things safer for me. Not to mention the accuracy gained by using a good saw.
five inch plywood backing cedar.
Thank you Home Depot Meridian.
Disclaimer: As usual nothing was received by be for mentioning Anyone Ever for Anything. While I would love free or discounted stuff I don’t want my opinions swayed so I continue to pay in full.
Sorry about the long gap between posts. No excuse, just doing other things. I spent most of yesterday and today working around the roof.? I forget the technical names for these parts.
First I knocked the wasp nests down from the eve’s. It seems the hotter the location the more they like it. I used an 8′ stick then got organized while they settled down some. No reason to get stung when I have other things to do anyway.
All todays exposed boards are cedar. It was chosen for it’s weather resistance. (Here in southern Idaho cedar can withstand the elements for decades without any treatment. I have fence sections still standing from the 80’s.). All cedar in my house is backed, usually with plywood, for added strength. I the case of the horizontal boards here the plywood is 15/32″ and the cedar is 5/8″. At five locations on each side and three on the front I added some decorative brackets. These are steel and my unofficial testing show they support at least 175# each. I can hang off of them once they were attached. (I don’t suggest this.) A dowel with material could hang there and be used as a shade canopy. They are the same brackets holding the lanterns at the door.
Vertical cedar backed with plywood.
Bracket supporting cedar and plywood.
Once the horizontal boards were installed and seemed OK I ‘spray foamed’ the joint between them and the wall to ensure insects and driving rain can not get up in there. I took the time to also close up any ingress gaps that were remaining under the roof. (No-one will ever see in there but why not do it the best I can?)
Spray foam was used to seal any gap that remained between the boards.
Then I began the process of the sides. The cedar is again backed with plywood. This time an additional layer of Liquid Nails Heavy Duty. For fasteners, I used exterior pocket screws. They were choses because of their strength and the ‘pan head’ that can compress against the wood. With the screws are in place these puppies are not going anywhere.
I only have a little over 28 feet of the 48 completed but here is what it looks like so far.
Taken through the kitchen window.
Despite extreme cold and knee deep snow, I finished installing the ceiling for the Bathroom.
I went with a 3/8 T&G cedar. It is simular to the pine that is in the main portion of the house but I believe the cedar will be more moisture resistant. I used a plywood underlayment to reinforce and level out the T&G.
I have not gotten a whole lot done this year. But I did manage to build my removable deck around Thanksgiving. The deck attaches along the lip that was intended for the loading ramps. The outside corners are supported with RV stabilizer jacks.
And it has been COLD ever since…
Last weekend it was 6 degrees outside. My 500 watt space heater did manage to keep the inside a toasty 42. (Keep in mind I have not finished I insulating the bathroom ceiling, closed in the floor under the bathroom, or added any under the bottom of the house.) Onice I lit the Big Buddy portable (propane) heater it was a toasty 62 in a little over an hour.
Here is the bath faucet from the bathroom side. The ‘brick’ wall is a mildew resistant wall board from Home Depot. I plan on waxing it good as well to increase the protection.
Behind the wall (Where the oven/microwave will go) I have plumbed in the water source. The PEX was run through the non-load bearing 1-4 but the cold pipe had to be directed down to minimize the stress on the tubing.
The pump will be on the back side of this wall slightly below the microwave shelf. The wood grained ceramic tile will is the shelf. Pump elevation will be even with bottom of the fresh water tank.
The water heater has been mounted in the storage area above the fridge. I picked the high space for ease of draining and it made the pluming easier. This also freed up storage under the cabinets (where it was going to go) and will make maintenance and electrical easier.
It is just a little 1000 Watt 2.5 gallon model that I found at Home Depot for a little under $100. I like that is just plugs into a standard outlet and can be switched. This way it can be on only when needed.
In the wall behind the heater I used a couple extra mounting clips to ensure the piping cannot come into contact with the lag bolts that are sticking into the wall space. they are from the ‘hanger’ that ensures the heater cannot fall or move around. Who would of thought all that California earthquake stuff would be needed in Idaho.?