Loft Planning

I have decided on a mattress size.  Well not really a mattress, but a good mattress topper which is essentially what I sleep on every night anyway.  (Why do mattresses cost so much?  It’s crazy!)  The loft can easy fit a Queen but that would be the whole loft.  I am not a large man and lets face it the bigger the bed the more the sheets cost as well.  I have decided on the size: Full.  Gives plenty of sleep area and room to ‘live’ in.

Here is roughly what I am dealing with.  I am planning a 15″ ledge (clearing?) at the front of the loft, between the mattress and ledge, for ease of climbing up and down.  Especially if I have anything moving into/out-of the loft.  An additional 12″ between the bed and back wall and window.  I’m thinking removable, but sturdy, shelves and nightstand.  After all, I like to have some water nearby in the night.

So now there is another ToDo on my list.  But I know the mattress fits and might give it a trial night this weekend.

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While the Trek is Down

The weather this weekend is awesome.  I should be on my mountain bike but the shock has blown a seal.  It is one of those new Rock Shox Thru|Shaft ones that Trek has began using.  It lasted almost six rides…  Makes me sad.


Blown shock.

So while the shock is in California being rebuilt I have been working on insulating the floor.  Under the floor would be more accurate.

First all gaps, cracks, holes, or anywhere a bug, air, or water could come in or nest are being filled with spray foam.  I love this stuff.

Then the remaining space is being insulated with 5″ of fiberglass.  Yes the pink stuff.  I found unbacked 93″ x 15″ bundles.  I have to trim off 11″ off the end of each batt and they fit real nice between the steel rungs that are holding up the floor.


The Pink Stuff

To keep the fiberglass from sagging for now I am using 18gauge steel wire strung between eye bolts.  I tried nylon mason cord first but it is too stretchy.  i just cannot pull it taught.


Eye-bolt for galvanized steel wire.

I will put a protective barrier between the insulation and street once I get the rest installed.  I’m not fully sure what I am using yet.

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Stereo Needed a Home.

The radio, with all of the cords, needed a real place to be.  Not just balanced on a shelf or being pushed around up in the loft.  So here is how it looks now.  The mount is in rear cabinet (under the back window) facing the new blue desk.  I can now walk freely and move materials without worrying if I am going to catch the cords and cause it to fall on the floor.


Installed stereo

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Aircraft Style Desk

This one is short and sweet.  I need a desk/table to work and eat at.  Not the counter by the sink

Start with a folding tray table.  Remove the legs.  You will have to drill out one rivet.  The rest are screws.


Cut a straight edge with your scroll saw.  (Careful there is a metal frame in that plastic.)


Sand and cut of all the alignment bump-outs on the back so it is flat again.  This allows it to sit flush against the wall.


Apply hinges and aluminum channel to support the fresh cut back edge.   Then attach to the wall with cabinet hinges and support with dowels.



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A Little Privacy

Curtains.  Take One:


I know I will have to do these again because the curtain panels I purchased are too cheap.  The look OK I guess, but the material snags if you even look at it wrong.  After trimming down once set I realized what I was dealing with and returned the other package before opening them.

The rods are 3/8″ dowels.  They are inserted into the window frame’s trim.  The rear insertion is about 1/2″ and the front insertion is a full 3/4″.  This allows them to be removed without excessive bending of the rod.


As you can see the look is alright and the color makes me feel ‘old linen’ but they are not really blocking out enough light.  I think the loft will require either Black-Out style or something made here at home.

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Goodby Pencil Sharpener


During a major project there is nothing like landmark moments.  Here is one of those moments.  I have unmounted the pencil sharpener from the kitchen counter.

You are looking at the only dark wood in the house.  I was wanting the aged bar counter look.  I have no idea what species an old bar would have been constructed from.  I have decided to use Maple.  I will be putting a few layers of wood wax that should assist in longevity.



If used on a residential home the warranty would be 50 years.  (As a kitchen counter? I’m guessing none.) . I think waxed maple should distress and age nice.

Contact cement was used to secure the boards in place.  I spread a moderate layer on both the boards and the base.  After the cement layers became ‘sticky’ the maple was pressed and locked together.  After setting for a few hot days (it has been hovering around 100 here in Southern Idaho) the fumes have finally cleared and the planks are secure.   I should be able to resume working inside the house again.

I still have to trim around the edges and sing, but this is my moment.  I have decided on Poplar to match the fireplace mantle.

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Vents for the air handler

After installing a traditional vent in the bathroom ceiling for venting I decided I did not like the look.  All this custom wood work did not need to be distracted by a rectangle in the ceiling.

Now the bathroom is vented by pulling air through holes in the shower curtain rod.  This allowed be to avoid making more holes in the walls/ceiling.

Fresh air can be pulled into the house by opening a gate valve located in the upper storage area.  (Like the one under the sink but smaller.). When open air can be drawn from under the house through 2″ tubing and through a filter.  There is an outlet vent as well in case windows have not been opened.  (In the cabinet near the outside door with the battery.)


intake vent

The main intake vent (the owl) is located near the floor and door where the air should be the coldest in heating weather.  The copper pipes on the ceiling and in the loft are also intakes but move a smaller volume of air.

The outlets are near the ceiling behind the roosters.


The Roosters (and owl) were cast-iron trivets designed for hot pans to sit upon.  It took a while by I was able to grind the feet off then drill screw holes (see the eye?) so they could be fastened flush to the walls.


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